Οδοιπορικά

Trip Information

[No Photos]
Trip Date:2010-01-30 - 2010-03-13
# Photos:19 [View]
Countries visited:Argentina, Chile, Italy
εθεάθησαν: 1626
During our stay in Buenos Aires me and my friend ,we planned almost everything as well as possible, buying my bycicle, the maps, checking everything out, finally we catch a bus to Esquel where we arrived 24 hours later.
Our final goal was El Calafate about 1500 km south, half to be ride on unpaved road, the average distance was about 60-70 km per day, depending on weather, road conditions, distance between villages or often any single house.
The first part of the trip in Chubut region (Argentina) was not so difficult ,the winds not yet atrocious, not so difficult to find water and food, the weather quite pleasant;first we visited "Los Alerces" national park where we did a short trek up to a refuge in the near mountains, then we continued to the chilean border at Futalefu pass.
Chilean patagonia is much greener than argentinian, because of the clouds and rains coming from pacific ocean stopped by the andean mountains before entering in Argentina, since we crossed the border it never stopped to rain for 3 days, we waited in Futalefu for the weather getting better without any change so we decided to catch a bus to Coyhaique, about 400 km south.
From Coyhaique we started again to cycle crossing andean cordillera at Portezuelo pass (1200 mt) during a snow storm arriving 2 days later in Villa Cerro Castillo, a wonderfull place at the foot of Cerro Castillo one of the best mountain in Patagonia, there we went trekking for a couple of days into the cordillera, arriving to a glaciar lake.
From Cerro Castillo we cycled all the way to argentinian border again, crossing by boat lake General Carreras and then entering in Argentina from Los Antiguos, after about 70 km in argentinian territory we arrived at Perito Moreno the last town with supermarket, ATM, internet, etc. we were expected to found for the next 400 km about.
We rested for 2 days in the small and boring little windy town before ride the bycicle again, our next stop was due at Rio Pinturas caρon where there is "cueva de las manos" the best example of preistoric art in Patagonia.
Rio Pinturas caρon is a wonderfull place and once there you understand why humans always settled there making it the centre of tehuelche culture, the strong winds that affect patagonia plateu can not disturb you there, it has a microclimate that make it a perfect place for rest and settle, we visited it on a long walking and cycling day,our rest day supposedly..
The day after we walked up to the Rio Ecker caρon looking for remainings of Tehuelche culture as "corralitos" stones that were used to make summer huts that indigenous people used during their guanacos huntings in the good season, we founded one and we had lunch there.
After our antropological stop over we continued south to Bajo Caracoles, a small group of houses with a restorant, a petrol station and a couple of hostal, the road in this region is unpaved but the governament is paving it, so ruta 40 will never be the same again,definitely is not the same thing also because they are cutting hills and making news bridge in order to make a faster and modern highway, progress is coming next, adventure and romanticism will be the past also in Patagonia.
In Bajo Caracoles we bought as much food we could carry because the next town was 350 km south, all unpaved, windy and dusty road, the first night we had to camp in the middle of nowhere, make a fire with "mata negra" a small plant that grows in this arid and windy region, no water here, no rivers only wind and desert, but also hundreds of guanacos, ρandus, hawks, armadillos and others species of birds, the mountains are far in the orizont, sometimes it seems they float in the air and the only sound is the wind, the god of tehuelche people.
During 7 hard and strenous days we rided all the way south to Tres Lagos, the first town after this long desert, during this week we could rest sometimes in turistic estancias, sometimes camping on the road, very difficult to buy food, for the water we stopped the cars and ask them, usually people there is very friendly with cyclists and we had no problem for the water, the wind was always from the west, usually stronger in the afternoon, sometimes it was so strong to make me fall down from the bycicle, in that condition the average speed was 5 km/h so 50 km in 10 hours!!
After Tres Lagos the road is paved again, it was so easy to cycle now! we went to El Chalten for trekking around Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy after that we ended up in El Calafate, the last 30 km has been the hardest in all our journey, going west with a 100 km/h front wind! but we couldn't stop there, it took 4 hours but we finally arrived, it has been a wonderfull and unforgettable experience, a lifetime one!!!!
explore TREKEARTH